SBK Japan

In this section I will discuss the options you have and the modifications that are required to get your machine on the track in Japan.

STARTING OUT

 The bike you chose to ride on the track is probably going to be limited to what you have, and certainly to start with that is the best option to go with. It is after the machine you know, the machine that are comfortable on. That is one less variable to deal with as you take on previously unexplored speeds, particularly corner entry and exit speeds.

PREP

Before you get to the track you should conduct some rudimentary maintenance. Most of this should be done in the lead up to your departure in the days before. Depending on whether you are taking your bike in a van (recommended) or riding up, some of these things might have to be done on the morning off.

• Brakes- Remove your calipers  take out your pads. Check their wear. with a plastic brush and warm soapy water clean the pistons and surrounds of your front brakes.

• Brake lines- Bleed your brake lines to ensure there is no air in them. Starting from the master cylinder and working your way down from there. DO NOT over fill your master cylinder when you have finished. you should be able to see air in the top of it. An overfull master will cause back pressure that will relay force back to the pads, causing the brakes to stick to the front wheel and result in excess wear, excess heat, and bad braking performance.

• Tyres- Check your tyres are good. Tyres are the most important part of maintaining traction. You should always ride with the best rubber you can afford. Street tyres are not made to ridden on the track. They are designed to provide grip at a lower operating temperature and thus when reaching track tyres temperatures they will lack the performance to match the speed and grip required.

• Tyre Pressures- Most tracks have the means to adjust your pressures in or around the Pit area. You should check your pressures while your tyres are cool, and adjust them to the appropriate pressures. This will vary from tyre to tyre, And your dealer should be able to supply you with the appropriate information. Track pressures are invariably lower than street pressures. There are recommended pressures but you will find a variance amongst regular racers on the same tyre type, as the tyre will behave differently depending upon what pressure it is kept at.  

• Oil Levels and condition- If you are an irregular track rider or first timer you should be changing your oil before you go to the track. Be sure to measure it out my capacity. Do not rely on the window as measuring stick, it is notoriously inaccurate and will vary substantially depending on engine temperature.

• Wire Locking- If you can it is recommended to wire lock your sump plug (requires the bolt to have a hole drilled in the head) and Oil filter (metal collar wired to the engine) for non racer class riders this isnt necasary to get on the track but if you think you will make a habit of track riding you should go ahead and get this done. There is nothing worse than spilled oil on the track for causing serious accidents. I have seen 10 riders go down in a corner after an initial low side caused a slick. Accidents are one thing, poor maintenance or preperation resulting in people being hurt is just plain uncool.

• Wire Locking 2- If you are riding with a Brembo master cylinder you should safety wire lock the hinge pin. I have seen video of the result of a hinge pin falling out at the end of Motegi's back straight, the rider heading off, over the sand and into the tyre wall at 250Km/hr. Somehow he survived, but he was extremely lucky. 

• Wire Locking 3- There is a list available as to what constitutes the accepted standard. That includes exhaust headers, oil cooler bolts, water cooler bolts, oil catch tank connectors, any form of filming device, and more...

•  Taping- Rules vary for non license days, but a general standard that is usually applied is the taping of all glass and plastic parts. This includes lights, mirrors, and blinkers.

•  Numbers- Some tracks will require you place a number in three positions on your bike for the purposes of identifying you while riding and allowing track officials the ability to relay information to you directly in case of emergency. You can read more about when this might be necessary in My write up of Circuit Flags and their meanings. These numbers can be made with Gum tape, but must be there or you will turned back from pit lane.

THE MORNING MAINTENANCE

 Before you ride there are a few things you should do, some essential some recommended. Ill make a list of some stuff for you to consider.

•  Stretch-Track riding is a sport just like any other, and the faster you go the more physical it becomes, It is a good idea to stretch well before you get on your bike. Not only does it allow you a chance to relax your mind, but it prepares your body for the rigors of riding to the limit.

• Check and re-check- Don't rely on others for your safety unless you trust them and their knowledge implicitly, it is your life and safety and your responsibility.

The Morning Bike check list..

This List is not a license to tighten the the begeebers out of the listed areas. Every bolt has a torque measurement listed in the respective manual. And that should be followed explicitly, using a Torque Wrench. There is nothing more annoying than ripping the thread from your frame by over tightening a rear set bolt.

1. Handle pinch bolts.
2. Brake clamp bolts, brake and clutch hinge nuts.
3. Axle nuts, caliper bolts, Brake pad pins.
4. Rear Step bolts.
5. Shifter connecting rod lock nuts.
6. Muffler bolts.
7. Tyre pressures.

Additional checks..

This stuff may or may not be up your alley, but its worth while but not essential to safety.