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Page 2 of 8 Day 2 After arriving at the very north tip of Hokkaido, hardly remember hitting the sack at 3.30am and instantly falling asleep. Woke to the sound of gulls and lapping waves with a frozen rear end, crooked knees and blood shot eyes 4hrs later. Add to that a dire need to open the southern flood gates. So, squirm out of the silk sleeping pocket, rip open the tent zippas, slip on the boots and launch out into the cold(15-16deg: cold for summer!) morning air. Only wearing my jocks the air was a nipple shrinker and the sun blinding. I reached back into the tent for the sunnies and then staggered around the bike and off in the direction of the toilets. Once the ground levelled I looked up across the park and luckily for the toilet auto pilot, I just kept on walking through the throngs of tourists there to get a pic with the Soyamisaki monument. Hahahaha! Yabanjin they must of all thought. What was the likelyhood of seeing someone I knew there? Or of me coming back there soon? Be proud and strut it! If they weren't awake before they certainly were now. Serves em right for being out here at 7.30am anyway I thought. Come to think of it, why was the carpark almost full at 7.30am? Getting back to the bike, it was well after sunrise so I packed up the tent and loaded up the bike again. Gotta say this took a while for some reason. At least I had clothes on. I was on the road again by 9am in search of the mapple recommended restaurant at the tip of Noshappumisaki to the west. That was a great decision as the seafood was fresh off the boat scallops and octopus on rice with a crab/miso soup, pickles and a flounder on the grill. Great rider fuel right there!  Taking some winding roads south a little, I was reflecting on how the shop attendant had been so friendly and the other bikers there also, as well as all the waving from ALL other riders I passed. Wow friendly place I thought as a big eagle came soaring over the road. That's when I was shown how friendly the folk up there really were. A couple of guys in a truck were kind enough to knock that eagle out of the sky so I could take a few close up snaps. Luckily, the grand raptor was able to soar again after the photoshoot and recovering from a little shock. Belly content with the north-wests finest, turned the FZ south along the coast (106-232) and some very long straight roads that had me thinking I was back in Oz.  Around Tomamae, swung east onto the mapple recommended 239 to sample some of Hokkaido's twisties. Pretty cool road at about 40km but had many dips and too many of them mid corner. Sure kept me on my toes. Then crawled across Shibetsu to the 61 and one of Hokkaido's hidden treasures. Not marked as recommended but recently(still a work in progress) retunneled and paved in the best sections it was a hoot with some cool views too.  Coming off this leg the FZ1 started pulling to right and getting a bit jumpy. Seemed it wanted a run at this The day was getting late and a lot of long straight roads(273, 238, 334) were taking me west in the hope of making Shiretoko in the east by nightfall. Around 6, at Notoroko(beautiful sunset)I started calling around to the campsites and found one. 12hrs and 550+km from Soya I rolled into camp at Shiretoko after a long but great days ride. The MURANO campsite in Ootoro had an onsen open till 10 and accepted traveller's till 9 so I rolled in there @ 8.30pm after a visit to the 7/11 for supplies. The camp area was quite full but the riders area had a big space for me near the centre by all the fun. I asked those gathered around the fire if it would be ok to set up tent there and they were great, even lighting up the area and giving me a beer while I got the tent set. Then I scampered off to the onsen, with a great rotenburo, before returning to cook some dinner. We gassed on fire a whike and I got some good tips for roads further east and south while parching dry throats and then we all drifted off to tents. I promised myself a long nights sleep. At least 7hrs! But what were those bleeting noises outside the tent?
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