SBK Japan

Day 4

The weather had finally delivered on it's persistent threats of rain and awoke to a pitter patter of rain on the riderhouse's tin roof. Always liked waking up to that but in this case it meant a wet day of riding ahead. Cameron, was already up and nowhere to be seen, so I scrubbed the beer taste from the gums and went out to the bike to load up. All the other riders seem to be waking in dribs and drabs and by the time we were ready to roll everybody was roaming about. Including the chickens and a boisterous rooster.

The plan was to head west for Kushiro, check out the Kushiro Shitsugen(marshland National park) and then shoot north for Mashuuko from where Cameron and I would probably part ways.
Heading out of Nemuro Cameron steered us along the 142 and some nice rolling curves. The rain was soft and more of drizzle but slowly picked up as time ticked by and we moved further west. However, even in the rain the scenery was great. Rolling green hills ending abruptly on a craggy cliffed coast line.

Stopped off on various viewing points but the fog and rain took some of the splendour off but made for a cool mystic experience.

Finally had to stop off half way to Kushiro to don the full rain gear and warm up with a hot drink and then soldiered on to Kushiro. Stuck to the 142 and found the paint to be real slick on the road. No offs but had me dodging the paint like potholes.
Got into Kushiro and looked up the 1st riderhouse(named Anglers) and after finding everywhere except the road to the riderhouse, including a Jietai base, we found Anglers. Looked cool with a fish stocked lake in a quiet valley. Unfortunately the owner informed us he was the new owner and it was no longer a riderhouse, just a fishing hole come lodge.
So we took another look at the Mapple and found a recommended eatery nearby and steered our way over there. Initially hard to find we were of 2 minds to find it full. 1st we wanted to eat and not wait. But if it full then the grub must be good. A couple at a table took pity on us and invited us to join them at there table and we didn't wait for a 2nd invite. Cameron ordered up a plate of fried chicken and me the scallops and shrimp salad. Seems fried food food was their speciality. And man oh man was it their speciality. That grub was fine!
Leaving there bellies content, we headed for central Kushiro and a riderhouse on the dockside. Turns out it was a minshiku and riderhouse with a rather strict matron on duty. We dumped our gear and headed out again as it was still mid afternoon and the rain had eased. Still wanted to see the shitsugen. Which we did. Not bad for a swamp. Stopped in at a look out and took a 600m trek up the hills to a lookout for a better view.

After the trek we were sweaty, stinky and in need of an scrub. So we hit the road, long way round, in search of an onsen. Missed the 1st one and decided to scoot all the way round to the west side to one marked there. The roads were nice and rolling and the sun was receding. I remember getting real sleepy tagging along on autopilot behind Cameron. We stopped for a powow and I told him I needed an adrenalin fix and would catch him at the next turn off. We met up at the junction of 52 and 666(which was mysteriously not marked in the maple) and proceeded to get more than a little lost. Don't know if it was the devil's work or fatigue but we missed the onsen turn off and overshot by 15km or so. It was about then I noticed that the FZ1 was dangerously low on fuel. Let me rephrase that. Due to my fatigue and then adrenalin charger oversight I'd not looked at the fuel gauge for near on 100km. STUPID!
Best guess had 10km left in the tank at a crawl and it made about 15 using my best economizing techniques before it spluttered and surged to a stop. 8pm in the middle of a swamp on rt666 with no fuel. That was smart. Luckily I was riding with a smart guy who had a decent length of rope on board. I know, I know, don't tow on a bike. Now I know why. Sure the arms got longer on that 15km tow. While Cameron was laughing hysterically at the idiocy of the whole situation I was grunting and howling with exertion trying to bloody hang onto that rope. By the end of the tow I was was laughing maniacally too.
Anyways we made it to a gas stand where the FZ1 gulped down 19.5 litres into a 18 litre tank(how I don't know). Then we hightailed it back out to that onsen. Man it felt good to soak the bones and popeyed muscles. After the simmering we headed back into town for some gut fuel. Was late and couldn't find much but we ended up in an ekimae restaurant watching the baseball and eating some of Kushiro's famous seafood.
Finally got back to the riderhouse around 11pm and made some plans for the next day. Cameron had some awesome maps to supplement the mapple and I went to work formulating the route for meeting up with Micron the next day while Cameron and the other guy in our room snored away with the cicadas.
Another different and memorable day on the north island done, I laid down in the sleeping bag and was out like a light.